I’ve went camping twice this summer and stayed at three Provincial Parks in Ontario as part of that experience. I’ve been thinking a lot about the complicated nature behind the parks system, the dispossession of Indigenous people from parks and the lack of acknowledgement of the traditional usage of the land by Parks. None of the parks I visited this year had signage about the history of the park or about the park’s relationship to the local Indigenous communities.
Last year I visited Pukaskwa Nation Park. It is the only Park I’ve visited to date that is actively working with the local First Nation community to reinterpret the site and to include a discussion of the community’s history on the land. Pukaskwa’s staff included an Indigenous Cultural Interpreter – who was from Pic River First Nation, the local First Nation community that was impacted by the creation of Pukaskwa. The were also in the process of creating an Anishinaabe Camp for cultural programming and the “Bimose Kinoomagewanan” trail signage was created by local elders and youth from Pic River.
Pukaskwa serves as one example of parks addressing their problematic past. I would be interested in knowing of any other examples out there. As visitors what can settlers do to encourage more critical interpretation? As a first step speaking with the folks staffing the visitors centre and interpreters to ask them about what they know about the park’s history can help. If they don’t mention the traditional Indigenous territory of the land ask why. Ask them why there is no discussion of the land prior to the park being established and if there is any plans to change that. Talk with the people you are camping with – have those important conversations about land and history – even if it makes you or them uncomfortable.
Recently while I was visiting Grand Rapids, Michigan and had an opportunity to spend time exploring the Frederik Meijer Sculpture Park and Gardens. It was a wonderful few hours on a gorgeous summer day and I loved the mixture of art, nature, and cultivated gardens. The Gardens opened in 1995, sits on 158 acres and aims to promote an understanding of gardens, sculpture, nature, and the arts.
Given that the site is 158 acres and that we had a limited time frame we were selective about which areas of the Gardens we explored. We spent the bulk of our time exploring the Sculpture Park which is 30 acres of outdoor paths, formal gardens, and natural landscape all geared to showcase large outdoor sculptures. There was a mixture of modern and traditional sculpture with some of my favourites being huge metal sculptures that were large enough to walk under. I also liked that they intentionally left some areas of the sculpture park ‘wild’ or more natural, it provided a great contrast to the sculptures.
In addition to the sculpture park during our visit there was also an indoor exhibition, Ai Weiwei at Meiher Gardens: Natural State. As part of this show Ai Weiwei’s work was in a formal gallery space but also located in conservatories and public spaces. Ai Weiwei is known as an activist and artist and much of his work on display was politically motivated or providing critical commentary on social events.
We also spent some time viewing around the indoor conservatories, the British style outdoor garden area, and the kids garden. We concluded our visiting the daylily show and competition that just happened to be occurring the day we visited. Lilies are one of my favourite flowers and I adored seeing the range of colours and styles of flowers featured in the show.
Overall this was a really great way to spend a morning, I left feeling like I learned something and also feeling really relaxed after spending so much time outside among beautiful garden spaces. I would definitely recommend this site to anyone traveling through Grand Rapids.
Following a great trip to Pukaskwa National Park I kept up the natural history and camping adventure by spending a few nights at Neys Provincial Park. I was struck by the difference in landscape between the two parks despite them being less than an hour away from each other. Pukaskwa had very hilly, cliff views of Lake Superior and the shoreline was a rugged . In comparison Ney’s had long open beach shorelines, sand dunes, and forested areas.
Prisoner of War Camp
Prior to becoming a provincial park the land now encompassed by Neys was used as a Prisoner of War Camp known as Neys 100 during the second world war. The camp housed high ranking German officers and others and was primarily staffed by veterans from the First World War. There are bits of this history scattered throughout the present day park — building foundations, bits of embed stone, and other physical remnants are all interpretation points in the Park today. Additionally the physical landscape was fundamentally changed by the POW camp, they flattened sand dunes and used many of the trees for lumber. Trees were later replanted by the Boy Scouts but in standard plantation rows, leaving evidence of how the land has changed.
We didn’t do nearly as much hiking at Neys as at Pukaskwa, but I did manage to explore a couple of the trails. The Point Trail is a short 1 km trail that follows the shore of Lake Superior and ends at a rocky outcrop known as Prisoners’ Point. The trail then connects to the Under the Volcano Trail that explores the shoreline stretching from the Point. I explored a bit of this trail as well. The trail was a relatively easy walk, albeit a bit wet when I walked it and it was well worth the puddle jumping to reach the views of the lake at the end. There was a few interpretive signs but they were relatively sparse. I did enjoy the one that talked about the remains of old boats located on the point– the boats were left over from the Prisoner of War camp era and the logging days of the region.
This easy loop hike included an interpretive handout that visitors could take with them on the walk. The handout included numbers which matched specific points on the trail and provided interpretive details about that area. The handout included a bit of information about the role of the POW camp on the landscape but primarily focused on flowers, the dunes, trees, and the impact of local animal life on the landscape. Unsurprisingly, I liked the fact that there was a physical thing to hold during the walk and that the interpretation was a bit more developed on this trail.
The Visitors’ Centre was only open during the last day I was at the park. Despite this we managed to make a short visit to the Centre and check out some their primary interpretive space. The displays were fairly standard for a provincial park, a lot of focus on the natural landscape with most material geared at families and including a number of touch and feel stations focused on children. There was also a substantial section dedicated to the history of Neys 100 which included a model which demonstrated what the POW camp would have looked like. The staff at the Centre were very friendly and seemed to know a lot about the history of the Park and were happy to answer questions about the way the landscape had changed.
Recently I visited Pukaskwa National Park, the only wilderness national Park in Ontario. The Park features a small campground and 1878 square km of wonderful Northern Ontario natural heritage.
I had a wonderful time camping, exploring, and learning about the landscape at Pukaskwa. We were there prior to the official start of their interpretation season (July and August) but still managed to take in some activities and many of their trails have great interpretive signage that can be used without a guide.
Anishinaabe Camp Construction
The first morning at Pukaskwa we joined in a walk to the Anishinaabe Camp that was currently under construction. We were the only ones to participate in the walk that morning but it was worth the half hour to talk with the people building an interpretive space based on traditional knowledge. Our guide was from Pic River First Nation and works as at the park as a cultural interpreter and programmer and the builders were a combination of local and visiting people with knowledge of traditional structures. As an added bonus our guide took us into the Visitor Centre despite it not being officially open for the season so we could take a look at some of their other programming spaces and some of the other birch bark items that were made at the Park. I loved that the park integrates traditional knowledge keepers into interpretive programming.
Pukaskwa has a number of short hikes that can all be completed in a hour or two from the campground. This was perfect for us given that we were traveling with a small child. The first hike we did was the “Beach Trail” which visits driftwood filled beaches in three different areas of shoreline – Horseshoe Bay, middle beach, and north beach. The views of Lake Superior and the huge amounts of driftwood were amazing to look at. This trail was a fairly easy hike though there were a few spots that could have used better signage and required some hunting to pick up the trail again. In addition to the natural beauty Horseshoe Bay also featured an easel which explored the Group of Seven’s paintings inspired by the landscape contained in Pukaskwa. I loved this integration of history, culture, and natural heritage.
The second trail we explored was the Bimose Kinoomagewnan trail or the “Walk of Teachings”. This trail may have been my favourite of the many hikes we did at Pukaskwa. It didn’t have Lake Superior views but the views around Halfway Lake and the interpretive signage focusing on the Seven Grandfather Teachings was extremely well done.
Each teaching had a sign placed at scenic points on the trail and the signage contained stories of Elders’ experiences in the park, their thoughts on the teachings, and their memories of the land. Each of these written experiences was paired with artwork by local youth. The signage was in three languages (English, French, Ojibway) and extremely well done and added to the trail significantly. On the natural heritage side of things I loved the variety of this trail which includes forested land, huge rock faces, hills, a beaver lodge, and fantastic views.
Southern Headland Trail
This was probably the most popular trail we explored – at least judging by the number of people we saw exploring the views. On many of the other hikes we didn’t see anyone else. The Southern Headland trail has breath taking Lake Superior views and overlooks Hattie Cove, Pulpwood Harbour, and Horseshoe Bay.
This walk provides visitors with glimpses of the power of Superior and there is some signage talking about the impact the lake has on the landscape and flora/fauna in the region. This trail also featured the “red chair experience” a Parks Canada national initiative which places red Muskoka style chairs at places with breathtaking views and spots which highlight some of the best spots in national parks. I love the idea of making destination points within parks that are points of connection, shared experience, and social media opportunities.
Also known as “the Spirit Trail”, Manito Miikana is a predominately forested trail leading to two viewing platforms with panoramic views of Lake Superior. This was by far the most difficult trail we hiked, it has a lot of changing elevations, a ton of tree roots, uneven ground, and it was very wet the day we walked it. The views were similar to that of the Southern Headland Trail but overlooked different portions of the lake and also allowed for a look at the Pic River Dunes in the distance. It wasn’t a bad hike and we probably would have enjoyed it more if it hadn’t rained so much prior to our walk.
I really enjoyed Pukaskwa National Park, exploring the natural history and learning a bit more about the landscape of the North Shore. I was also pleasantly surprised by a lot of the interpretation programming and signage in the park. The interpretation I engaged with was really well done and the Park has made an effort to engage local Indigenous communities in programming and include traditional knowledge in their signage.
A few weeks ago my family and I visited Pancake Bay Provincial Park for the first time. Pancake is located on the shore of Lake Superior, has more than 3 km of sand beach, hiking and nature trails, and a location on the paddling route of the Voyageurs. The shoreline is beautiful, the park is well maintained, and there is educational signage throughout. The only downside of the location of the park is that is right next to the Trans-Canada highway, so on a still night you can hear transport trucks on the road. During the first night of our stay Lake Superior was so rough all you could hear was the sound of the lake – it was a great example of the power of the big lake.
While at the park we explored the campground area and the Pancake Bay Nature Trail. Many of the central points in the campground have educational signage about wildlife, Lake Superior, and the surrounding natural environment. It was nice to see this natural heritage education material being included in central areas so that even those who don’t participate in formal programming could read about the area.
The nature trail was an easy 3.5 km walk that included views of the shoreline, forested areas, and a boardwalk through a wetland. The interpretive signage through this natural heritage was well done and had a lot of educational information about the ancient beach ridges, rock formations, flora and fauna, and water. There was one sign that had fallen down and there was a section of the trail that was extremely muddy. The muddy section looked like it could use some signage or physical maintenance.
Pancake Bay Park staff also run a natural heritage education program during the summer months. The timing of the guided walks and educational programs didn’t work for us, but it was great to see the signage relating to these events and I hope they are well participated in. One of the programs while I was visiting included a guided walk on the beach and a discussion about the history of the Voyageurs in the area.
So far I’ve only visited a handful of Provincial Parks in Ontario but Pancake Bay was by far the most popular park I’ve visited. There are drawbacks and upsides to this popularity. On the plus side there was a lot more educational signage and interpretive programming available in the park. On the downside the natural heritage is heavily influenced by people and you’re bound to run into others when exploring the landscape. Regardless, it was an enjoyable visit.